Sunday, March 18, 2007

Frame Glued!!!!!

Whew! Uhmmm yeah, Have some freinds around for this one. I got it wired on my own after a bit, but it was slow and tedious as well as messy. It took quite a bit of time and the glue (3M Marine Adhesive Sealant Fast Cure 5200) got a skin over it while gluing, but I'm sure it bonded well. A helper is needed seting the strappings and clamps on. One person on each side of the rocker table. It goes much easier. What I had to do is guestimate where I wanted the clamp to be on the one side while applying pressure to the strapping on the other side and running around the board while applying steady pressure and hoping I don't loose the hold.

I had to go out and buy 90 bucks more in clamps. I got new Jorgenson Clamps at a great store called Woodcrafters. The clamps are made in the USA and Thank goodness I got them. i wouldn't have been able to tape the strapping with Duct tape in its place because the stations are only 24 inches wide and I would reccomend for this board (9 foot Root) that the stations be 26 inches wide. Also, my chinese made clamps failed under stress, they just didn't work and slipped.

If you got knots in your strapping, Use them for spacers only because they will snap! Gunshots were going off!

I drew two lines down the sides of the centerline and it was a great idea because I was able to use that as a guide for the keel. So in essence, my centerline was 1/4" wide. It's a good move.

No matter what I did, my keel and cross members moved around. The keel is mostly straight, but from the middle to nose, it's slightly zig zagged on top, hopefully not on the bottom! It only strays and 1/8" tops, so I'm thinking no big whoop. Also the cross members in areas of high rocker (nose, tail) drift down towards the boards center. I had those suckers at 90 degrees with my square, but they moved eventually. Some a bit more than 1/8" but not much. I'm sure it will work out OK in the long run. I'm pretty happy with it.

I used about half the caulk on the bottom of the frame, then I put the other half along the base of the keel and cross members later to use it up and add extra strength because I have a feeling it might need it. I'm leaving it clamped up until I begin the next step, I don't want anything breaking loose.

On the clamps at the nose I made wedges because the angle of the rocker was too big for the clamps and they were sliding off the strapping. I took a pic of it. I actually over did the angle, but who cares. I got it done!
This bit took about 4 hours. I always overstate the time, but it's average.
Total hours up to now...19.5
money invested other than kit.........$250.00


brad said...

It is best to start with getting the keel itself clamped first to keep things from shifting about.

Some people will use lengths of wood forced up against rafters or floor joists overhead (if you are in the basement) to press down on just the keel first. When they are in place, they look like props extending from the top of the keel up to the ceiling. This keeps things from shifting about 'thwartships. (this is called "tomming down"). Once the keel is in place (and as straight as you can possibly get it) then you can square up the frames a bit if needed and tighten the clamps on either side (or tom them down as well - one prop for each side of each batten).

It is actually pretty important to get the frame as straight as you can. Remember that when shaping, you only have a quarter inch to work with. If you use even half that to straighten out a crooked board, then you can get some weak spots.


Fish said...

Oooh! I see what you described. Cool! I'll remember that for next time!

I didn't have the ceiling space to tom with because the ceiling joice is filled with lighting.

Next place I have I'll keep that in mind!